Author: Tim Law

Day Five Wednesday 27/09/2006
We have left quite early today as it is a long way to Salmon Gums by horse & cart, very sad to say cheerio to Southern Hills but we feel great now as we have been able to step back in time.. The run back to the Telegraph line was really quick as we had shifted all the trees on the way in but what a trip we are having on the Fraser Range Rd. Hundreds of trees, I had a drive today, Tim & Don took turns riding Shotgun on the back as we have to stop every couple hundred metres for a tree. Very rough also, top speed about 20kph (fast for a horse).

Eventually came through the burnt bush & then the fallen trees stopped. Not too late at Salmon Gums so followed the computer along a gravel Rd to get to our camping spot as per itinerary, road not yet built as stopped at a farm so into the farm we go to get permission to travel through the property, nobody home so off the other way to cut across but no road again. Tim decided Barry driving too slow & darkness closing in. Poor Cruiser, it didn’t like his driving & started spluttering so we need a camp site real soon for some maintenance (probably a bit of fish or chips in the filter). Stopped beside the railway line on the Esperance Road, plenty of wood & no prickles. We are experts at setting up camp now & it takes no time at all.

Barry Dennis

Day Four Tuesday 26/09/2006
All up early as so much to see & do, at 6-30 a B double road train came driving down Southern Hills road heading for the mine & then at 6-30 a 4WD drove past the homestead so we guessed that would be Derek. We virtually followed him to the mine as he hadn’t seen our camp. Had a good chat to Derek, he was arranging to truck out a load of granite so said to come back about 3-00pm & he would have more time to talk. We went back to the homestead for more of a poke around & we almost trod on the guardian (quite a big python).

Derek came back to chat with us for a bit as he needs some stuff from the shed, he was most interested in our knowledge of the past as it differed to what he had found out. He thought the shearing quarters had been erected after the house burnt down but Marcus Wood told me all about that. Marcus & his wife went for a holiday to South Africa & arranged for people to stay in the homestead, the people weren’t happy with the 32 volt so bought a 240 volt lighting plant, the wiring couldn’t take the high voltage which burnt the place down leaving the shearing quarters virtually unscathed except for very singed rafters. It looks to us as though the laundry would be the original as it is very close to the house along with the thunderbox which is now septic. We decided to visit Fraser Range Station so set of quite early on a nicely graded road but it didn’t fit our directions so came back & went along a bush track past Healy`s dam. The latter part of that track, near Eyre Hwy was very very rough so not keen on going back that way. Met Teen Ryan at Fraser Range but they all seemed to be under pressure there so didn’t gain much information from her or her husband. The Caravan Park Manager reluctantly talked to us for a while before we left. Tim asked Teen if we could shower but she wasn’t too keen as they had just cleaned them although a bit later she did offer as long as we paid, we didn’t bother. They did give us permission to drive through their property though so that we could go back to the homestead past North well. Not a bad track back & we decided to have lunch at the dump. This was paradise for Don he found so many things to fill up the nooks & crannies in the Cruiser. Found the remains of an old Sunshine Harvester, real old cars, all the burnt iron from the house, just amazing how much stuff was dumped, it was just behind the House Dam.

Went down to see Derek & decided to climb Mt Malcolm first as we were a bit early. Fairly easy climb & it gave us a very good idea of the Station as it is the highest point. Back to see Derek & he was good value, the mine is not in receivership but stopped mining in January as there is a large wastage with cracks in the Granite. He has been trying to arrange sales for the smaller Granite blocks & once that is fixed they will start up again. He told us that North well was really interesting as they had dug a well which was about 35 mitres deep. Amazing how things get out of proportion as we measured how deep the well was & it is about 10 feet. Perhaps the original hole was 3.5 metres not 35 metres. We found an old camp not far from the well & we could imagine Tom camping there as it is quite a distance from the homestead. There was a real old table in the camp & also big steel buckets used to lift the dirt from the well. Long discussions around the campfire tonight as we are starting to get the feel of life at the Station & the amount of effort required by both Tom & Paula, they are an amazing couple.

Barry Dennis

Day Three Monday 25/09/2006
We all slept extremely well after being in bed very early & quite exciting so we were away about 8-00. Not far along we came across two more tanks 100ks from Norseman, 50ks would be a good days work with the horses so we figure this would be where they camped on trips to town.

Drove straight past the Fraser Range road as Tim was speeding (about 20kph) so I had to stop him as the computer GPS shouted at me to go back – it was an amazing tool. Fraser Range road was no better as there had been a fire through. When it is burnt nothing existing survives, all the trees are dead but the regrowth is phenomenal, this is why there are so many trees on the road. Stopped at a rock waterhole for a look. This spot would have been amazing for droving as the Fraser Range road goes for miles, the rock hole was built up with rocks to help it hold more water. What a wonderful sight when we found the Western gate to Southern Hills, about 10-30 now & we are here, it feels like such an achievement.

Not far inside the property we came across a hill which we climbed & added a rock as Tom would have done. In the distance we could see Mt Malcolm so it gave us a good idea of the size & location of the station. Excitement rising now as we are looking for the homestead, Don looking at the map Barry looking at the computer, Don & Barry arguing which way to go, as it turned out we got to know the roads very well & either way would have done. The Southern Hills road in was graded & like a highway & then we came across a miners camp so we were starting to get the gist of current day happenings. Not much further we could see a very large cleared area (100s acres) with the shearing shed in the distance on the hill & what looked like the statue of an enormous camel, then it ran off so we figured it wasn’t a statue after all. Turned off the highway into the homestead & here we are, first thing we noticed was prickles everywhere.

The homestead site was very much visible, although sadly the house has burnt down. In later years they have obviously built asbestos shearing quarters up against the back veranda & they are still standing, although rather scorched from the fire. We found the blacksmiths shop but no building remains. The shearing shed has been rebuilt but they have retained many of the old features like bush timber for the fleece bays & two very old wool presses. All the yards remain & are intact, the dip could be used immediately. East of the homestead are more remains of a house but looks like it was built later, we had lunch under a tree beside an old windmill. Went for a drive South then as we had arrived from the North West & before Mt Malcolm was the mine, hundreds of thousands perhaps millions of dollars worth of machinery just sitting, it almost looks like the place is in receivership. Had a good look around but decided we would catch up with Derek Louwe tomorrow as he will be arriving from Perth to do some work at the mine. Had a bit more of a look around the station at the mills & dams but most are dry so back to homestead to find a place to set up camp.

There seemed to be less prickles near where we had lunch so found a nice spot there at the base of the rocky outcrop, there has been a lot of work put in here trapping water. As the water runs down the rock face they have built catchments to steer the water into small dams. One spot would have been deep enough to swim in & we feel that would be the one Norah refers to in her story. Spent a lot more time poking around the house & sheds before an early night, we feel great tonight as we have made it.

Barry Dennis

Day Two Sunday 24/09/2006
Very relaxing here, none of us slept that well & I froze, too cold to get up & put on more clothes so I tried to keep my coat on top of me. We will all wear more clothes to bed tonight. Left about 9-00 & stopped at a rocky outcrop before Norseman. Arrived in Norseman about 11-00 & went to Supermart to top up with supplies, two frozen loaves bread one with use by July & the other use by Sept, bar of chocolate & a kettle (naughty Barry, burnt Tim’s special kettle’s handle nearly off). Went to the Tourist centre & the woman was great value, she also told us to visit John Graham who is a great bloke & will know heaps (“you do know he is aboriginal do you?”). Had lunch in the park & asked some other people who won the footy, Adelaide were well in front when we lost reception at half time. Exciting to hear Eagles won. Went to see John Graham but he had gone to Esperance for the day, had a good chat to Lurleen his wife but she didn’t know much about Southern Hills. John’s brother Simon was in town from Esperance at the church but we missed him too. Headed out of town on the old Esperance road which took us through lots of old gold mines, stopped at the Breakaday cricket pitch which has been there since 1895.

Next stop was the junction of Telegraph Line & old Esperance road, quite an eerie feeling as we are starting to feel as though we are going back in time. Only a few Ks along we came across a salt lake which had a very steep entrance, goodness knows how Tom & Paula got the wagon/cart through. A little further & the fallen trees started, the track wasn’t too bad but lots of small fallen trees that had to be cleared off the track before we could continue. Followed a track for 6 Ks to look at a rocky outcrop but didn’t find it so back to Telegraph Line. Found the track & also found the rocky outcrop, disturbed a big mob of camels.

About 50ks from Norseman we came across a water tank with the remains of the structure for a roof which would be the catchment to keep the tank full. We were keen to get to Southern Hills tonight but very slow going, so decided to stick to itinerary & camped in a salt lake beside a small rocky outcrop, beaut spot. Tim radioed in but no messages. Chicken something or other tonight for dinner, Kerry you are incredible.

Barry Dennis

Day One Saturday 23/09/06
Tim arrived here at 10-00am already having picked Don up. I was relegated to the front seat as Don was playing with the computer. Tim has made up a program & has a little green car that moves along & shows us exactly where we are at all times. I am sure Tom would have had exactly the same thing when they were travelling around the State early in the 20th Century. By the way Tim has informed us that we are running on used oil from the fish & chip shop.
First stop was Wungong where Tom & Paula managed a farm, we are fairly sure the farm belonged to the Pustkuchens. From there we tried to travel in the direction they would have gone when they went to Southern Hills.

All in the spirit of adventure we had not long left Wungong & Tim exclaimed we have a problem as the car is misfiring so we best stop. Don & I made lunch while Tim changed the filter & then we headed off in great style. It wasn’t long before we had the same problem again so Tim decided the filter must have been okay but now he thinks we have a fuel pump full of air. Wish I had taken a photo of Tim in the engine, bottom up & Don offering advice ”When you undid that screw fuel should have spurted out”. This stop proved very fruitful I think because whatever Tim did made the Cruiser a lot happier. Stopped in Brookton to look at the old carts & carriages as we were trying to understand the type of conveyance Tom & Paula used.

This turned out to be the last of the mobile coverage for some days, we didn’t even find out the Semi Final footy scores until Norseman where we asked someone. Don asked for a drive but he was VERY naughty & kept going toooo fast so he was banished from the drivers seat for several days. Actually Don is beginning to be quite a problem, the Cruiser is pretty well full of gear & every time we stop he disappears for ages & arrives back with all this stuff to show the kids. We travelled through Hyden & then directly to Norseman, it is possible though they may have gone to Katanning first & then across to Salmon Gums & up to Norseman as further investigations caused us to believe the Hyden Norseman route was not opened until quite a bit later & we are unable to understand why Helen was born in Katanning. Time was getting on & Tim keen to get to a very nice breakaway he had found on a previous trip about 100ks from Norseman so not only was Don banned from driving he was also banned from getting out of the car when we stopped to look at things “naughty Don”. This philosophy worked well though because we got to the breakaway about 5-30 & found a great spot to camp.

Tim radioed in to Perth base on HF radio to report on where we were & check for messages. All went well setting up camp & then the problems started, what do we have for dinner “The list Tim pipes up, check the list” What do you know Kerry has written a detailed list of what we should eat each night & how to cook it “UNBELIEVABLE”, we had T bone steak, sausages & vegetables (couldn’t eat all the sausages so put them in the fridge for lunch). If every day is going to be like this one we are going to have one hell of a great time.

Barry Dennis